A deep dive into top active ingredients rising consumers' interest
Beyond addressing photoageing as a standalone concern, its prevention and treatment align with two key trends shaping the beauty industry today: glowing skin and well-ageing. Central to these trends is the growing consumer focus on hero ingredients. According to Kantar Profiles and Mintel, 70% of UK consumers tend to look for specific ingredients rather than checking all of them [1]. By responding to these preferences, brands can create skincare solutions that not only combat photoageing but also resonate with the modern consumer’s demand for targeted, proven results.
THE GLOW FACTOR
From Dark Spots to Glow: The Brightening Revolution
According to Erik Haines, managing director of Guidepoint Qsight, for an interview with Cosmetic design, "brightening and anti-aging concerns are among the most popular skin care issues, with moisturizers, creams, and lotions being the top form factors". Haines noted that "brightening products have increased their share of total sales over time, indicating an increased focus on brightening for consumers." [2]
| 40% |
of global facial skincare launches claimed "brightening" or "illuminating" in 2024. |
Linked to the skin glow trend, hyperpigmentation has become a hot topic in the beauty industry. For instance, it represented 1.1 million Google searches in December 2024, reflecting an 8% growth in searches throughout 2024 compared to 2023 [3]. Furthermore, according to the Global Cosmetic Industry, “the hyperpigmentation treatment market is expected to grow at 7.58% annually through 2032,” highlighting the increasing consumer demand for effective solutions. [4]
Brands are responding with a surge of brightening formulations featuring active ingredients like niacinamide, AHAs and BHAs which have gained popularity for their proven ability to reduce pigmentation by inhibiting melanin production and promoting cell turnover to reveal brighter skin. In caring for UV-damaged skin, hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid that support the skin barrier and improve glow, and anti-inflammatory agents like green tea extract reduce redness remain in high demand. [5]
AHAs and BHAs: Targeting Photoageing Through Skin Renewal
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, and citric acids and Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are widely used in cosmetics for their ability to improve skin texture and appearance for a healthy-looking glow. They act as superficial peeling agents, help address conditions like acne and reduce wrinkles and skin thickening, making them excellent candidates for targeting the signs of photoageing. Unlike antioxidants, which can be safely incorporated into suncare and hybrid formulations, AHAs and BHAs are intended exclusively for skincare products, ideal for nighttime routines.
Antioxidants: The timeless essentials
As part of the ongoing pursuit of glowing skin, consumers are increasingly drawn to ingredients with antioxidant properties. A recent survey by Mintel reveals that 62% of Chinese adults identify a dull complexion as a key skin tone concern - an issue often linked to oxidative stress and closely tied to the effects of photoageing.
Free radicals have been studied as a contributor to skin aging linked to oxidative stress. Antioxidants in skincare, such as vitamins A, C, and E and minerals like copper, zinc, or selenium, can provide protection from endogenous and exogenous oxidative stresses by scavenging free radicals. [6], [7]
“Additionally, antioxidants might act by enhancing the DNA enzyme repair systems through a posttranscriptional gene regulation of transcription factors.” [8]
Vitamin C stands out as one of the star ingredients for addressing the signs of photoageing. Its popularity among consumers is undeniable; for example, 22% of Spanish consumers associate Vitamin C with long-lasting results [9], making it a go-to choice for those seeking effective and reliable skincare solutions.
CELEBRATING SKIN HEALTH WITH WELL-AGEING SOLUTIONS
The power of retinol and the appeal of natural alternatives
Vitamin A derivatives include compounds like retinol, retinal, as well as their natural and synthetic derivatives. They support skin health by stimulating collagen production, accelerate cell turnover, helps reduce wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and so, photoaging.
Retinol & its derivatives remain popular ingredients, but retinol can cause side effects such as dryness and irritation. This has led ingredient manufacturers to develop alternatives that deliver the same level of efficacy without any negative side effects. Bakuchiol has gained popularity not only for its natural origin and retinol-like effects but also for its ability to provide similar benefits without the common side effects, such as skin irritation, making it a preferred option for those with sensitive skin.
| +12% | of worldwide increase in google searches for "bakuchiol" (2024 vs 2023) Source: Google trends |
Peptides regain the spotlight
Peptides surged in popularity on the skincare scene in the early 2000s and have made a strong comeback in recent years. According to Deciem’s Chief Scientific Officer Prudvi Kaka for Cosmetics Business, “New advancements in genetic editing and biotechnology have allowed for the development of novel, more complex peptide technologies that were previously exceptionally difficult to synthesise”. He added “the current buzz surrounding peptides is in part a result of the growing number of clinical studies demonstrating increased efficacy and tolerability surrounding these compounds, compared to other powerful ingredients”. [10]
Peptides help ensure optimum cell functions and are a great addition to the skincare routine before applying sunscreen to ensure a smoother skin appearance (less wrinkles) and skin tone.
Peptides and proteins are both composed of amino acids. Their primary difference resides in their size and complexity - peptides are short chains of amino acids, while proteins are larger molecules made of peptide subunits. Peptides serve various functions, such as carrier peptides for transport, signaling peptides for cellular communication, and enzymes to catalyze reactions. Linked into longer chains called polypeptides, they define a protein’s structure and act as messengers that trigger cellular functions. When applied topically, certain peptides can stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis, promoting skin firmness and elasticity. [11] , [12]
References
[1] Kantar Profiles/Mintel, June 2024. Base: 1,230 internet users aged 16+ who research ingredients used in beauty/grooming products they buy
[2] CosmeticsDesign. (2024, October 10). Brightening, anti-aging, and beyond: What’s driving professional skin care sales. https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2024/10/10/brightening-antiaging-and-beyond-what-s-driving-professional-skin-care-sales/
[3] Glimpse/Google Trends
[4] GCI Magazine. (2024, May 20). Skin pigmentation 2.0: Beauty trend tracker. https://www.gcimagazine.com/ingredients/skin-care/article/22892042/skin-pigmentation-20-may-2024-beauty-trend-tracker
[5] Clinikally. The science behind brightening serums for radiant skin. Retrieved from https://www.clinikally.com/blogs/news/the-science-behindbrightening-serums-for-radiant-skin
[6] Chen, L., Hu, J. Y., & Wang, S. Q. (2012). The role of antioxidants in photoprotection: A critical review. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 67(5), 1013–1024. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2012.02.009
[7] https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18839043/ Allemann, I. B., & Baumann, L. (2008). Antioxidants used in skin care formulations. Skin Therapy Letter, 13(7), 5–9. PMID: 18839043
[8] Poljšak, B., & Dahmane, R. (2012). Free radicals and extrinsic skin aging. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2012, Article ID 135206. https://doi.org/10.1155/2012/135206
[9] Kantar Profiles/Mintel, June 2024. Base: 849 internet users aged 16+ who research ingredients used in beauty/grooming products they buy (excluding oral care and fragrances)
[10] Cosmetics Business. Peptides are taking the skin care world by storm. https://cosmeticsbusiness.com/peptides-are-taking-the-skin-care-world-by
[11] OneSkin. How to use peptides in your skincare regimen to optimize your health. https://www.oneskin.co/blogs/reference-lab/how-to-use-peptides-in-your-skincare-regimen-to-optimize-your-health
[12] Dermatology Times. What are cosmeceutical peptides? https://www.dermatologytimes.com/view/what-are-cosmeceutical-peptides